{"id":2810,"date":"2023-11-17T22:33:10","date_gmt":"2023-11-17T21:33:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/?p=2810"},"modified":"2023-11-17T22:33:10","modified_gmt":"2023-11-17T21:33:10","slug":"knocking-out-and-inserting-steel-balls-for-main-oil-ducts-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/2023\/11\/17\/knocking-out-and-inserting-steel-balls-for-main-oil-ducts-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Knocking-out and inserting steel balls for main oil ducts"},"content":{"rendered":"

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01\u2014130 Knocking-out and inserting steel balls for main oil ducts<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Self-made tool<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Mandrel for knocking-in steel ball<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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refer to Fig. item 9<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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The main oil ducts in cylinder crankcase are closed at transmission end by means of a steel ball (17 mm dia.) (arrows).<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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During engine repairs, the steel balls must be knocked out to clean main oil ducts.<\/div>\n
Undamaged steel balls can be used several times without refinishing ball seat.<\/div>\n
Replace damaged steel balls.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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In the event of leaks, reset steel balls with knocking-in mandrel approx. 1 mm (dimension is indicated on knocking-in mandrel).<\/div>\n
If the leaks are then not yet eliminated, knock-out the respective steel ball and replace by closing plug M 18 x 1.5, part no. 000 906 018 <\/strong>000.<\/div>\n
For this purpose, cut thread M 18 x 1.5 to a depth of 10 mm as shown on drawing.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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01.8-130\/1 F2<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Thoroughly remove chips from oil duct.<\/div>\n
Cpat closing plug M 18 x 1.5 with sealing glue, part no. 002 989 94 71 and screw in.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Upper main oil duct <\/strong>Knocking-out<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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1\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove transmission and flywheel (03\u2014410).<\/div>\n
2\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove radiator (20-420).<\/div>\n
3\u00a0 \u00a0 Unscrew closing plug (1) and adjacent hex. nut.<\/div>\n
4\u00a0 \u00a0 Knock out steel ball from the front by means of a round steel bolt (13 mm dia.) approx. 850 mm long.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Lower main oil duct <\/strong>Knocking-out<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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1\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove transmission and flywheel (03\u2014410).<\/div>\n
2\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove radiator (20-420).<\/div>\n
3\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove pulley, vibration damper and balancing disc (03-340).<\/div>\n
4\u00a0 \u00a0 Unscrew closing plugs (1 and 2).<\/div>\n
5\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove inner slide rail in cylinder crankcase (05-340).<\/div>\n
6\u00a0 \u00a0Tilt engine slightly toward the rear.<\/div>\n
7\u00a0 \u00a0 Knock out steel ball from the front by means of a round steel bolt (13 mm dia.) approx. 850 mm long.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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01.8-130\/2 F2<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Upper and lower main oil duct<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Knocking-in<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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8\u00a0 \u00a0 Thoroughly clean bore in pressing-in range of steel ball.<\/div>\n
9\u00a0 \u00a0 Coat spherical cup on self-made knocking-in man\u00addrel with grease and place steel ball into cup.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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3-13405<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Knocking-in mandrel<\/div>\n
Material: C 45<\/div>\n
M 17.1 +0.1 = ball dia.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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10\u00a0 \u00a0Position steel ball by means of knocking-in man\u00addrel and knock in up to stop on mandrel.<\/div>\n
11\u00a0 \u00a0 Mount all removed parts.<\/div>\n
12\u00a0 \u00a0 Run engine warm and check for leaks.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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01.8-130\/3 F2<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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    01\u2014130 Knocking-out and inserting steel balls for main oil ducts   Self-made tool   Mandrel for knocking-in steel ball refer to Fig. item 9   Note The main oil ducts in cylinder crankcase are closed at transmission end by means of a steel ball (17 mm dia.) (arrows).   During engine repairs, the steel balls must be knocked out to clean main oil ducts. Undamaged steel balls can be used several times without refinishing ball seat. Replace damaged steel balls.   In the event of leaks, reset steel balls with knocking-in mandrel approx. 1 mm (dimension is indicated on knocking-in mandrel). If the leaks are then not yet eliminated, knock-out the respective steel ball and replace by closing plug M 18 x 1.5, part no. 000 906 018 000. For this purpose, cut thread M 18 x 1.5 to a depth of 10 mm as shown on drawing. 01.8-130\/1 F2       Thoroughly remove chips from oil duct. Cpat closing plug M 18 x 1.5 with sealing glue, part no. 002 989 94 71 and screw in.   Upper main oil duct Knocking-out 1\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove transmission and flywheel (03\u2014410). 2\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove radiator (20-420). 3\u00a0 \u00a0 Unscrew closing plug (1) and adjacent hex. nut. 4\u00a0 \u00a0 Knock out steel ball from the front by means of a round steel bolt (13 mm dia.) approx. 850 mm long.   Lower main oil duct Knocking-out   1\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove transmission and flywheel (03\u2014410). 2\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove radiator (20-420). 3\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove pulley, vibration damper and balancing disc (03-340). 4\u00a0 \u00a0 Unscrew closing plugs (1 and 2). 5\u00a0 \u00a0 Remove inner slide rail in cylinder crankcase (05-340). 6\u00a0 \u00a0Tilt engine slightly toward the rear. 7\u00a0 \u00a0 Knock out steel ball from the front by means of a round steel bolt (13 mm dia.) approx. 850 mm long.   01.8-130\/2 F2       Upper and lower main oil duct   Knocking-in   8\u00a0 \u00a0 Thoroughly clean bore in pressing-in range of steel ball. 9\u00a0 \u00a0 Coat spherical cup on self-made knocking-in man\u00addrel with grease and place steel ball into cup.   3-13405   Knocking-in mandrel Material: C 45 M 17.1 +0.1 = ball dia.   10\u00a0 \u00a0Position steel ball by means of knocking-in man\u00addrel and knock in up to stop on mandrel. 11\u00a0 \u00a0 Mount all removed parts. 12\u00a0 \u00a0 Run engine warm and check for leaks.   01.8-130\/3 F2        <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[46,44],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2810","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-crankcase-and-cylinder-head","category-om617"],"aioseo_notices":[],"featured_image_src":null,"author_info":{"display_name":"mackuz","author_link":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/author\/mackuz\/"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2810","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2810"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2810\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2811,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2810\/revisions\/2811"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2810"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2810"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mbci.mackuz.ovh\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2810"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}